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Nissan 300ZX Turbo

Posted by budiman mohd | 1:27 AM | | 0 comments »

The Nissan 300ZX and it's turbo brother were a much-needed breath of fresh air. By 1989, Nissan’s proud Z-car felt like a disco-age holdover, and the competition wasn’t much better. Mazda’s RX-7 Turbo had 200 hp and an identity crisis. The 232-hp Toyota Supra Turbo weighed more than a Cadillac Eldorado. Porsche charged $42,000 for a 944 S2 with a 208-hp four-cylinder, and only big discounts could move the 250-hp Corvette.

Nissan 300ZX Turbo
The last of the Z-series, the Nissan 300ZX Turbo was a stylish and affordable
machine. Sadly, the rising price of the yen and changing tastes spelled its en

Into this fricassee blew the 1990 Nissan 300ZX, quickly recognized as the benchmark it was. When the 222-hp base model was followed in a few months by the 300-hp Turbo, the birth of the modern, affordable, high-tech sports car was complete.

“A near flawless mix of form, function, and class,” raved Car and Driver. A one-year evaluation led David E. Davis Jr. of Automobile to call the Turbo “as good a high-performance coupe as any company has ever built in any country at any price.”

Against the ’89 model, the 1990 Z-car had a five-inch-longer wheelbase, but its body -- a fluid shape jointly drawn by Nissan’s Japan and California studios -- was shorter, wider, and lower. A modest rear spoiler, under-grille cooling slots, and a “Twin Turbo” decal subtly differentiated the two-seat Turbo from the base coupe and 2+2. All used an iron-block, aluminum-head 3.0-liter V-6 with state-of-the-art dual cams and variable-valve timing.

Nissan 300ZX Turbo, Engine

To each cylinder bank the Turbo added an oil-cooled turbocharger and an intercooler for lag-free thrust right to the 7000-rpm rev limiter. It also had Nissan’s Super HICAS (High Capacity Actively controlled Steering), which turned the rear wheels to provide remarkable transitional stability and surgical steering response. Steering assist was vehicle-speed-dependent, and the driver could adjust the all-independent suspension between touring and sport damping. Balancing this gadgetry was a cockpit of disarming simplicity and comfort, marred only by a frustrating automatic climate system that reset itself each time the car was started.

Nissan 300ZX Turbo, Interior
The interior of the Nissan 300ZX Turbo was the pinnacle of style and simplicity.

At $33,000 to start, the ’90 Nissan 300ZX Turbo was a terrific performance value, and the car changed only in detail over the years. By 1996, however, the escalating yen had shoved the base price to $43,979, and the bloom was off. The market shifted -- to sport-utility vehicles, to lower-tech roadsters, to sport sedans. Nissan didn’t import the ZX for ’97, and the death of the modern, affordable, high-tech sports car was complete.

There have long been rumors of a successor to the S15 throne, and Nissan did release this teaser image from Nissan’s GT 2012 meeting held recently. They hinted towards a cheap, ‘drift-able’ rear wheel drive sports platform, the Silvia. The leaked images show the side view of the upcoming FR sports coupe due to go on sale in 2010.

image_homepage_hero

The image reveals just enough to give a good idea of what the final shape will be. An interesting feature is the small third “quarter window” and the pronounced rear blister fender.

2010_nissan_fr_sports_coupe1

Although frustratingly obscured, the image would appear to show the classic Silvia shape, and is a real indication that the manufacturer is finally moving towards the return of one of Japan’s greatest sports cars.

2010_nissan_fr_sports_coupe2

GENERAL

Body typeCoupe
DriveFR
Transmission4 speed automatic full range electronic control (E-AT)
Displacement, cc1998
FrameGF-S15
Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area)2437 (~$20300)

SPECIFICATION (SPECS)

EXTERIOR

Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm4445 x 1695 x 1285
Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm1640 x 1390 x 1070
Wheel base, mm2525
Treads (F/R), mm1470 / 1460
Ground clearance, mm130
Curb vehicle weight, kg1270
Gross vehicle weight, kg
Seating capacity, persons4
Doors number2
Min.turning radius, m4.9
Fuel tank capacity, l65

ENGINE

Displacement, cc1998
Engine modelSR20DET
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm225 ps (165.49 kw) / 6000 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm28.0 kg*m (274.59 N*m) / 4800 rpm
Power density5.64
Engine typeWater cooling serial 4 cylinder DOHC16 valve IC turbo
Engine information
Fuel systemNISSAN EGI (ECCS) (electronic gasoline injection)
TurbochargerTurbo with intercooler
Fuel typeUnleaded premium gasoline
LEV system (Low emission vehicle)No
Compression ratio8.5
Bore, mm86
Stroke, mm86
Final gear ratio
Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km11.2
Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km

CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION

Power steeringYes
Tires size, front205/55r16 89v
Tires size rear205/55R16 89V
Braking system, frontVentilated disk
Braking system, rearDisk
Suspension system, frontStrut type
Suspension system, rearMultiple link type

EQUIPMENT

EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT

Sunroof / MoonroofOption
Front fog lampOption
Rear fog lampOption
Xenon headlight (Discharge lamp)Present
Projector headlightNot Present
Rear wiperPresent
Front spoilerOption
Rear or roof spoilerOption
ABS (Antilock brake system)Present
TCS (Traction control system)Not Present
LSD (Limited slip differential)Present
Privacy glassPresent
UV cutting glassPresent
Aluminium wheel16inch standard

INTERIOR EQUIPMENT

Air conditionerFull automatic
Wood panelNot Present
Cruise controlNot Present
Centralized door lockPresent
Power windowPresent
Steering wheel telescopicNot Present
Steering wheel tiltPresent
Leather steering wheelPresent
Power front seatNot Present
Power rear seatNot Present
Leather seatNot Present
Falling down type rear seatJust the type
Child seat fixed with seat beltPresent
Rear ELR3 point seat belt Present
Front seat pretensioner seat beltNot Present
Fourth limited front seat beltNot Present
Side impact barPresent
Airbag (Driver)Present
Airbag (Passenger)Present
Airbag (Side)Option
Audio deckAM/FM radio equipped MD player
CD-playerSingle equipment
Car navigation systemOption

Nissan 350Zs straight line speed stretched to the limit in stunning drag-strip monster, Project Zed
Created by owner and driver John Bradshaw, Project Zed is a full Pro Class drag car packing almost 1,900bhp
Amazing dragster will perform at the FIA European Finals at Santa Pod, September 10th to 13th 2009
In support of the track star, Nissan will have a stand at the show displaying its latest road-going sports cars, the GT-R and 370Z.

A very special Nissan Z-Car is ready to rumble at Santa Pod! Built to break multiple European records, the hand built dragster will be the only Japanese engined car competing against more traditional American V8 machinery in Mainstream drag racing this year.

The lovingly prepared Project Zed is powered by a Nissan 350Z 3.5-litre V6 engine producing nearly 1,900bhp. Owner and driver John Bradshaw is thrilled to be taking his mighty machine to the famous Santa Pod Raceway, Northants. John comments: Å“Its incredible to finally have the car ready to test now and we are all very excited by its potential. It really is a car that is capable of setting records around the world and just shows what a Nissan engine is capable of producing.

Project Zed is the first ever Pro Class 350Z to be seen in Europe and has been eagerly awaited by drag fans all over Europe. Its no surprise to find that predicted acceleration times are breathtaking. Not only is 0-60mph expected to take only0 1-.2 seconds, but 168mph will arrive in just 4.1 seconds.

The team are no strangers to success having set the fastest quarter mile time in the world for a Nissan Skyline (7.68 seconds @ 177mph) with their other car, Project GTST, which is a 1997 Nissan Skyline RWD GTST. Producing over 1,150bhp at the wheels, the car holds the record for the fastest Japanese car in Europe for 2008 and retains that title to date in 2009.

Throughout the rest of the year Project Zed will run in various classes including Super Pro ET, Competitor Eliminator and HKS Series " Pro Class.

Nissan has enhanced the Model Year (MY) 2009 GT-R by incorporating new MY 2010 programming that will optimize clutch engagement control for improved drivability. This upgrade also improves vehicle acceleration with the Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) ON/activated.

Nissan will provide this MY 2010 specification upgrade to MY 2009 GT-R owners at no additional cost. Nissan has already incorporated this programming into the GT-R vehicles in its U.S. inventory and will resume shipping of those vehicles to dealers. We will advise you soon on how to install this new program into all MY 2009 GT-Rs (see below).

The GT-R will continue to offer supercar characteristics of exceptional handling, maneuvering and overall driving experience. This upgrade provides the consumer improved drivability and enhanced acceleration performance with VDC ON (as required by the warranty). Standing acceleration capability with VDC ON (VDC-R mode) will improve compared to the original model year 2009 performance while such acceleration with VDC OFF will be moderated. Customers should be reminded to drive safely and obey all traffic laws. [Please note independent media reports of 0-60 drive times with VDC OFF (or what the media call "Launch Control") on closed courses with professional drivers will likely increase after this change.]

The GT-R Owner's Manual expressly warns against driving with the VDC OFF (except to free the vehicle when stuck in mud or snow) to avoid damage. Repeated acceleration launches with VDC OFF have resulted in some reported instances of damage to the transaxle. Repairs for damage caused by driving with VDC OFF are expressly excluded under the terms of the Nissan GT-R New Car Limited Warranty. Except when stuck, there is no reason to drive with VDC OFF.

This change was initially implemented with the start of MY 2010 GT-R production and has been completed for all 2009 GT-Rs still in NNA inventory... In a few weeks, you will receive the Technical Service Bulletin explaining how to implement this specification change for all remaining 2009 GT-Rs...

Attached is a REVISED Customer Disclosure Form With Modification Notice, which must be used with all customers who buy or take delivery of a MY 2009 GT-R.

In the first full redesign of the iconic Nissan ZÒ since its re-introduction as a 2003 model, nearly every piece and component has been rethought or redesigned – shorter wheelbase, greater use of lightweight body materials, new engine with more horsepower and improved fuel economy, a new 7-speed automatic transmission with paddle shifters, a world’s first synchronized downshift rev matching system for the manual transmission, new high quality driver-centric interior and new available technology features.

But to get the full measure of the new model, now designated the Nissan 370Z, one need look no farther than the subtle upswept line of the new rear quarter window. Quintessentially ZÒ, the window harkens back to the original 1970 240Z – a car that revolutionized the sports car world with its unique combination of performance, style and, especially, value. The new 370Z solidifies the ZÒ’s position as one of the most desirable sports cars on the planet – at an affordable price – bringing true sports car performance to everyone.

“The fresh character of the 2009 Nissan 370Z is immediately apparent in the crisp new exterior design, which is sportier yet still immensely identifiable as a Nissan ZÒ,” said Al Castignetti, vice president, Sales, Nissan Division, Nissan North America, Inc. “One usually thinks of evolution as being linear. The new 370Z’s ‘super evolution’ builds on the best features of both the first and last generations Z–cars – respectful but not retro, simple yet sophisticated, and 110 percent pure ZÒ.”

Solidifying the strengths of its immediate predecessor, the new 370Z was conceived as an “Everyday Sports Car,” targeting segment-leading performance and a base MSRP of around $30,000 (final performance figures and pricing to be available at a later date).

“The new 370Z lives in the sweet spot of performance, style and value, a position that Nissan invented with the original ZÒ. It’s an authentic sports car that you don’t have to make sacrifices to own – or drive everyday,” said Castignetti.

The new 2009 Nissan 370Z Coupe model is scheduled to go on sale in North America in January 2009, followed by a new 370Z Roadster for the 2010 model year.

The New Exterior: Not Just Sculptural, Functional
The 2009 370Z’s dynamic new styling offers dual benefits – a more aggressive appearance and a lighter, tighter structure for enhanced performance. The new Z’s wheelbase is nearly four inches shorter than the previous generation ZÒ (100.4 inches versus 104.3 inches), accomplished by moving the rear wheels forward in the 2nd generation FM platform, while overall length is reduced by 2.7 inches (167.1 inches versus 169.8 inches). At the same time, the overall width been increased by 1.3 inches, the rear track by 2.2 inches and overall height reduced by 0.3 inches, giving the 370Z a much more aggressive stance.

The more compact exterior dimensions and expanded use of lightweight materials help reduce weight. For the first time, the ZÒ features aluminum door panels, along with an all-aluminum hood (the previous aluminum hood design utilized steel reinforcements) and an aluminum hatch.

At the same time, the body structure was extensively revised, improving front body torsion rigidity by 30 percent; a new front suspension cradle to reduce front body lateral bending; new rear structural reinforcements; and an underbody “V-bar” to help reduce rear lateral bending. Other enhancements include the use of a carbon fiber composite radiator housing and strengthening of the rear fender and hatch areas.

Rear body torsion rigidity is improved by up to 22 percent and rear body vertical bending rigidity is improved by up to 30 percent. The result is enhanced overall solidity and handling capability. Even with all of the new body strengthening measures the overall body-in-white is lighter than the previous body-in-white.

“As every race car driver knows, weight is the enemy of performance and rigidity is the foundation for handling – but they usually work at cross purposes from each other,” said Castignetti. “With the new 370Z, the engineers were able to build a body that is both stronger and lighter, enhancing ZÒ’s athletic performance abilities.”

Along with its new structure and stance, the 370Z has a taut new skin – one that looks completely new, yet completely ZÒ. The exterior design incorporates intentional 240Z styling cues, a sleek aerodynamic shape, a “dynamic motion” feel with a dramatic cantilevered roof (with Nissan GT-R styling cues) and a “low visual gravity.”

The coefficient of drag is 0.30 (0.29 with the Sport Package), the same as the previous generation 350Z Coupe. The new ZÒ also maintains the previous generation’s zero front lift and zero rear lift when equipped with the rear spoiler, thanks to extensive aerodynamics efforts – including an “inverse area” front bumper design which smoothes the flow of air to the sides of the vehicle, while the rear design maximizes the control of air flow from the roof to the rear hatch. In addition, the front overhang was extended 1.2 inches and more than 200 rear quarter panel patterns were made and wind tunnel tested to counter the negative aerodynamic effects of shortening the wheelbase (versus the 350Z).

“The 370Z incorporates all of the signature ZÒ elements – the long nose, canopy cockpit, muscular fenders, vertical door handles,” said Castignetti. “What’s new is a more wheel-oriented, organic design with more of a sense of precision and agility.”

One of the most distinctive features of the bold new exterior design is the headlight/taillight treatment, which features a fierce “boomerang” shape. High Intensity Discharge (HID) bi-functional xenon headlights with auto on/off feature are standard.

The hood’s deep character lines continue over the windshield into the new, cantilevered roof design. The intense broad-shouldered rear shape is highlighted by the integration of the boomerang taillights and wide, flared rear fenders.

The 370Z’s sleek silhouette is defined by its upswept quarter window design that is echoed by the dynamic upward curvature in the lower rocker panel and the sense of the taut sheet metal molding itself around the wheels and frame. Attention to detail and functionality is evident throughout the exterior design, including the addition of a flashing (repeater lamp) side marker lamp/emblem.

Performance body pieces are available as part of the optional Sport Package, including a front chin spoiler and rear spoiler. The 370Z is offered in seven exterior colors: Pearl White, Monterey Blue, Brilliant Silver, Magnetic Black, Solid Red, Platinum Graphite and a launch-year only, premium signature color, Chicane Yellow.

A Driver’s Cockpit Equipped To Make Car and Driver Feel Like One
The interior design of the new 370Z continues the ZÒ tradition of enhancing driving pleasure, no matter what the road or traffic conditions offer. “As an Everyday Sports Car, every aspect of the interior needs to address two needs – support and enhanced driver performance during spirited driving and offer high levels of comfort and utility for normal commuting and around-town activities,” said Castignetti.

The traditional 2-seat layout is built around a deeply scooped instrument panel with a full-length center console separating the driver and passenger’s seat. In the rear is an open cargo area with enhanced storage and accessibility. The design focus incorporates a “layer concept,” with an information layer, an operation layer and a holding layer.

The information layer provides enhanced visibility with easy access to all key data. The gauges are once again attached to the steering column, so the driver doesn’t have to choose between the perfect steering wheel position and visibility of the gauges. The upper steering wheel opening in front of the gauges was also enlarged to provide a better view of the readouts.

Gauge size has been increased over the previous generation design, including a 15 percent increase in the tachometer, and the gauge angle has been adjusted.

The instrument panel retains the traditional 3-pod cluster with oil temperature, voltmeter and clock, while the speedometer and tachometer now include an “initial sweep” function, coming alive when the ZÒ is first started.

The operation layer includes the steering wheel, shifter and switchgear. The steering wheel is an all-new “oval” 3-spoke design, which offers baseball-style stitching, improved thumb grips and palm rest areas for improved feel on long drives. The surface of the leather-wrapped wheel is “shaved” to provide a more kidney-like shape to better fit in the hand. The shifter was also redesigned, with the manual transmission shifter padded in different areas to improve the accuracy of diagonal shifts and to feel softer in the hand for forward and backward motions.

The holding layer includes the seats, knee pads and door trim support. The driver’s seat is uniquely different from the passenger’s seat, with lower seat cushion cut-outs on the sides where the thighs rest – allowing the driver to push on the pedals without the seat fighting them. The seat also features an improved frame that helps it to better hold the driver in place during cornering. It also offers a 0.4-inch lower hip point than the previous ZÒ driver’s seat.

Both the driver and passenger’s seats are structured with an anti-slip material in the main seating surface. The sporty woven cloth seats feature standard 8-way driver’s/4-way passenger manual adjustments, with heated 4-way power-adjustable leather-appointed seats standard with the 370Z Touring model. Adjustable front seat Active Head Restraints are also standard.

The door armrests have been designed to provide extra support when cornering and the kneepads are better integrated to help the driver maintain the proper position while cornering.

In addition, the available aluminum pedal pads utilize a new rubber insert material to improve grip and the accelerator pedal and brake pedal are completely new. The accelerator pedal is now floor-mounted (versus hanging) to provide better contact with the foot, less effort to operate and easier pedal-to-pedal foot/heel movement. The brake pedal is a new variable ratio design with enhanced rigidity and easier operation.

Interior packaging is also enhanced from the previous generation, including the removal of the rear strut brace (replaced with less intrusive structural reinforcements) and by adding a new “shelf” area behind the seats, creating an ideal area for storing briefcases. A retractable cover is standard on the 370Z Touring model. A locking glove compartment has been added.

Standard interior comfort and convenience features include Nissan Intelligent KeyÔ with Push Button Start, power windows with one-touch auto up/down feature, power door locks with auto-lock feature, a center console box with a new non-intrusive cover design, automatic climate control, rear window defroster with timer, two 12-volt power outlets, four cupholders (two in door panels, two in center console), dual overhead map lights and a AM/FM/CD/AUX 4-speaker audio system with illuminated steering wheel-mounted controls.

The 370Z Touring model adds standard 4-way power adjustable heated synthetic suede and leather-appointed sport seats with adjustable lumbar support, 6CD Bose audio system with eight speakers (includes dual subwoofer) and MP3/WMA playback, XM(r) Satellite Radio (XM(r) subscription required, sold separately), Bluetooth(r) Hands-free Phone System, HomeLinkÒ Universal Transceiver and passenger seat map pocket.

An optional Navigation Package includes the touch-screen Nissan Hard Drive Navigation System with XM NavTraffic(r) with Real-Time Traffic information (XM(r) subscription required, sold separately), 9.3GB Music Box Hard Drive and Interface System for iPod(r).

The 370Z interior is available Black cloth or for 370Z Touring models, a choice of Gray, Black or Persimmon leather-appointed seating.

“Of all the tremendous enhancements to the new Z(r) interior, one that is easy to overlook is the enhanced quality – both in fit and finish and in the quality of materials and designs,” said Castignetti. “Z(r) is proving once again that outstanding performance is available at an affordable price and so is outstanding quality.”

Taking Performance To A New Level
Since so many aspects of a sports car’s performance come down to the simple formulation of power-to-weight, the engineering teams behind the development of the new 370Z made that their priority focus. On the weight reduction side of the equation, they put the new Z(r) on an extremely restrictive diet. Beyond just the pounds shed with the body-in-white, every component throughout the vehicle was scrutinized. For example, fuel tank weight was reduced by 13.9 pounds, the exhaust system by 3.8 pounds, the audio system by 3.5 pounds and the 19-inch wheels by approximately seven pounds each for the fronts and six pounds for the rears – an estimated 225 pounds total.

Along with the reduced weight, the center of gravity was lowered through use of a lower engine positioning (-0.6 inches) and lower driver hip point (-0.4 inches). Rotating mass was reduced with a shorter carbon-fiber composite driveshaft. All of these weight savings were needed, of course, to counter the added weight of the Z(r)’s enhanced body structure and new technology and safety features. The net weight reduction is 95 pounds for the 2009 Nissan 370Z over the comparable 350Z Enthusiast model.

On the power side of the targeted class-leading power-to-weight goal, the new Z(r) picks up 26 horsepower utilizing the fourth generation of Nissan’s award-winning VQ-series V6. The new 3.7-liter VQ37VHR engine with VVEL (Variable Valve Event and Lift) is rated at 332 horsepower @ 7,000 rpm and 270 lb-ft of torque @ 5,200 rpm, compared with the previous 3.5-liter V6’s 306 horsepower @ 6,800 rpm and 268 lb-ft of toque @ 4,800 rpm.

Along with its larger displacement, the new engine gives better power delivery all the way to the 7,500 rpm redline, improved low-end power and more high-end torque, creating an entirely new driving experience. Approximately 35 percent of the engine’s parts are new, versus the previous design.

Key to the enhanced performance is the VVEL system, which is able to optimize intake valve open/close movements, allowing the needed air to be sent promptly to the combustion chamber at the precisely optimized time.

Since the VVEL system can adjust to open the valves slightly, it improves fuel efficiency by reducing camshaft friction and fuel waste. It also provides cleaner emissions by allowing for quicker warm-up of the catalyst and by stabilizing combustion when the engine is cool. The engine also has a new “growl” from the dual exhaust system due to reduced back pressure, enhancing driving enjoyment.

The new engine is backed by a choice of two new advanced transmissions, both designed to improve driver performance. The new close-ratio 6-speed manual includes an available world’s first synchronized downshift rev matching system, which allows drivers of any skill level to experience professional-like gear shift performance. The “SynchroRev Match” function automatically controls and adjusts engine speed when shifting to the exact speed of the next gear position, essentially “blipping” the throttle to smooth out any up/down shifts. This not only allows the driver to focus more on braking and steering, it improves vehicle balance and smoothness by reducing the typical “shock” when the clutch is engaged. The system can be deactivated with a button next to the shifter for drivers who prefer less vehicle intervention. The SynchroRev Match system is offered as part of the optional Sport Package.

“The SynchroRev Match system takes nothing away from the driver – you still have to engage the clutch and move the shifter – it just gives you a performance edge by smoothing out the gear engagement,” said Castignetti.

Overall shift feeling has also been improved, with reduced vibration and noise (accomplished through improved lubrication) and a modification to the lever angle of the short-throw shifter.

The 370Z’s new 7-speed automatic with Downshift Rev Matching (DRM) and Adaptive Shift Control (ASC) is designed to offer quick, manual-like shifting when operated in manual mode with a target time of 0.5 seconds between shifts. Drivers can use the standard paddle shifters or the shift lever. With new torque converter lock-up logic, the new 7-speed automatic feels more direct, like a manual transmission. The new 7-speed’s wide gear ratios offer improved fuel efficiency, while the Adaptive Shift Control is designed to adjust to the driver’s driving style.

“The combination of the new 3.7-liter engine and advanced new transmissions puts the Z(r) solidly at the front of the class in terms of responsive acceleration,” said Castignetti. “Add in the enhanced handling from the revised suspension – which provides better grip, reduced understeer, improved road holding, reduced impact harshness and better ride – and you’ve got a new standard for thrilling performance.”

Estimated fuel economy is 18 mpg City/26mpg Highway for both the 7-speed automatic and 6-speed manual transmissions – increases of 1 mpg City/2 mpg Highway for the automatic and 1 mpg Highway for the manual transmission versus the 2008 350Z.

The previous generation Z(r)’s suspension has also been rethought to reduce weight, improve strength and improve camber change and lateral displacement. The double-wishbone front suspension (replacing the lower multi-link setup in the 350Z) uses lighter forged aluminum arms and a lightweight rigid aluminum-alloy cradle, along with a lighter stabilizer bar with a 35 percent improved lever ratio.

The 4-link rear suspension is also now stiffer and lighter, with the rear cradle entirely integrated into a single part (no welding). All-new “high response” shock absorbers are utilized on each corner, with ride comfort improved through reduced shock friction.

The standard 370Z wheel and tire package features 18x8.0-inch front/18x9.0-inch 5-spoke lightweight aluminum-alloy wheels with P225/50R18 front/P245/45R18 rear Yokohama ADVAN Sport maximum performance summer tires.

Also available as part of the optional Sport Package are 19-inch RAYS forged lightweight aluminum-alloy wheels with Bridgestone Potenza RE050A P245/40R19 front/P275/35R19 tires.

The Z(r)’s already advanced braking system has been upgraded to include improved overall brake feel, better fade resistance and improved NVH. With adoption of the new variable ratio brake pedal, pedal stroke feel is more direct. The standard 4-wheel vented disc brake system includes Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) with Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist (BA). The optional Sport Package includes Nissan Sport Brakes with large diameter 14.0-inch front and 13.8-inch rear rotors (versus 12.6-inch front/12.1-inch rear standard rotors) with 4-piston front and 2-piston rear aluminum calipers.

Steering is provided by a vehicle-speed-sensitive power-assisted rack-and-pinion deign that has been reworked (including redesigned mounting bushings and a column insulator) to provide improved response. Unwanted steering kickback and vibrations are reduced with the addition of a solenoid valve that acts like a damper when there is a harsh impact load. The standard Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) system has also been revised with new electronic hardware and all-new logic.

The Nissan 370Z’s long list of standard safety features includes the Nissan Advanced Air Bag System (AABS) with dual-stage supplemental front air bags with seat belt and occupant classification sensors; front seat-mounted side impact supplemental air bags; roof-mounted side-impact air bags; seat belts with pretensioners and load limiters, Active Head Restraints, Zone Body Construction with front and rear crumple zones, Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System, Vehicle Security System and Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).

A Simplified Model Line-up
The new 2009 370Z’s model line-up has been greatly simplified, versus the 2008 350Z, with just two models – 370Z and the 370Z Touring.

The 370Z Touring adds heated leather-appointed power seats, HomeLink(r) Universal Transceiver, Bluetooth(r) Hands-free Phone System, 8-speaker Bose(r) audio system, XM(r) Satellite Radio (XM(r) subscription, sold separately) cargo cover and aluminum pedals to the long list of standard Z(r) features and equipment.

Two option packages are offered: the Sport Package, with 19-inch RAYS forged wheels and Bridgestone Potenza tires, aerodynamic front and rear spoiler, larger Nissan Sport Brakes, SynchroRev Match (6-speed manual transmission only) and Viscous Limited Slip Differential; and the Navigation Package, with Hard Drive-based Nissan Navigation System, 9.3GB Music Box Hard Drive and Interface System for iPod(r).

“This exciting new Z(r) represents the essence of the Nissan brand, just as the original 240Z did nearly 40 years before,” said Castignetti. “It provides passionate performance at an excellent value – just what was needed then and just what sports car enthusiasts are looking for today.”

Together with the release of the 40th Anniversary Edition of the 370Z for North America, Nissan today announced the Japanese market launch of the 2010 model year Fairlady Z lineup that includes the introduction of the new Roadster model and minor upgrades for the coupe version of the JDM 370Z that also gains a "40th Anniversary" model to mark the first four decades of the sports car.


Beginning with the coupe, the 2010 model year brings a number of small enhancements that include the adoption of an HDD CARWINGS navigation system with a built-in digital TV receiver, an advanced map update system and iPod connection. Furthermore, an Intelligent Key with a Z metal emblem is offered, along with new body color variations, including a new Premium Deep Maroon color.


One year after the launch of the newest generation Fairlady Z, Nissan has added a canvas-top Roadster model to the sport car's Japanese line-up. The Fairlady Z Roadster features the same 3.7-liter V6 engine as the coupe model.


Also, in celebration of the 40th anniversary of the birth of the original Fairlady Z in October 1969, Nissan has released a limited edition version of the coupe that entails the same styling traits as the commemorative 370Z that will go on sale in the States in Spring 2010.


Available at Nissan's Japanese dealers for one year after the release date, the Fairlady Z 40th Anniversary is based on the JDM Version ST and is offered with a 6-speed manual gearbox or a 7-speed automatic transmission.


Highlights include a unique metal grey paint job, red leather seats and door panels, contrasting red stitching on the steering wheel, console and other parts of the interior, new alloy wheels, and an array of 40th anniversary emblems inside and out.


Prices for the Fairlady Z Roadster in Japan range from 4,357,500 yen to 5,092,500 yen, for the 2010 Fairlady Z Coupe from 3,643,500 yen to 4,588,500 yen and for the 40th Anniversary model, from 4,483,500 yen to 4,588,500 yen.

Wallpaper Need For Speed

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Wallpaper Nissan Skyline

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Tyre Care Tips

Tyres are expensive, and of all the consumables in motoring tyres come second only to fuel in terms of cost. As with fuel consumption, the way you drive can impact on your tyre consumption.

If a tyre does develop a problem, it is useful to be able to identify what that problem is, so that you can prevent it recurring. The main problems are wheel alignment and incorrect tyre pressure. Don't just assume that when you have had your alignment checked that it will be correct; keep an eye on your tyre wear. Similarly, air pressure needs to be checked, even on recently fitted tyres.

However, your driving habits may impact on your tyre wear. It has been said that high speed driving can overheat tyres and result in the degradation of the rubber, resulting in the breakdown of the tyre. This is true, but generally your car should be fitted with tyres with speed ratings above the maximum speed of the car itself. Also, that heat build-up usually only occurs when the tyre is under-inflated. So high speed driving alone is not usually the sole reason for tyre failure - or else our motorways would be littered with cars needing tyres replaced.

Tyre wear is accelerated under hard driving, so the heavy footed driver, both on the accelerator and brake is likely to see higher tyre wear. If he adds high speed cornering he can expect to increase tyre wear even more.

Harsh braking wears down tread quicker, and it can lead to flat spots, especially on older cars with oval brake drums or uneven discs.

Inflation is key to keeping tyres in good safe condition. The air in the tyres warms up very quickly, even on a cold day, and when the tyre starts rolling it generates some heat, which heats up the air in the tyre, which expands thus creating a higher air pressure. So, when you drive a mile to the garage to set your tyre pressures, and they are at 32lbs instead of 30lbs, and you drop them by 2lbs you have actually reduced the pressure from the correct 30lbs.

Tyre pressures should always be checked at cold before you move the car - which is why tyre pressure monitoring systems that function as soon as you put the key in the ignition are better than ABS fed systems. (Most cars sold in Europe with TPMS have electronic sensors in the wheels that check tyre pressure automatically).

Incorrect tyre pressures have various outcomes. Firstly too low a pressure can result in uneven wear on the shoulder of the tyre. It can lead to overheating and tyre breakdown. It makes the suspension feel softer, and can make the car's handling sluggish and slow to react to steering input.

Too high a pressure results in uneven wear around the centre of the tread. With less contact on the road it makes wheelspin and skidding more likely, accelerating wear in the high pressure contact area. The car will have very light steering and in some situations it will be over-responsive to steering input and have a propensity to skid.

There are very few circumstances where reducing tyre pressure on the road can be recommended. Not even in snow and ice. However, if towing, or running a heavily laden vehicle it may be a requirement that the tyres are inflated to a higher pressure - see your vehicle owners' handbook for details.

Balancing your wheels is important for several reasons. Firstly, an imbalance in the wheels, especially front, will be felt as a vibration through the steering at some or all speeds. It can increase noise levels and make the car uncomfortable to drive. On the short to long term it can increase mechanical component wear in the track rod ends, ball joints, steering rack and even the wheel bearings can fail. If you have your wheels balanced after a new tyre fit or a puncture repair, be wary of any detrimental changes to your car's "feel", it may need the wheels rebalancing.

Another area that causes increased tyre wear is that of road surfaces. There isn't a great deal that the driver can do, other than be aware that on some road surfaces - even those that appear smooth, there may be a multiplying factor on tyre wear. A worst case example would be that tyres that might do 30,000 miles in the UK, might, under similar driving conditions in some areas of Norway or Sweden only do 20,000 miles or less. This is because the Scandinavian road surfaces are built to offer better surface drainage and grip due to their adverse weather conditions.

Spotting the Faults

Tyre pressure is best checked with the tyres cold, in the morning. Tyres should be inflated to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. However, when you buy replacement tyres you should check that they need to be inflated to the same level - some tyres operate batter at slightly different pressures.

Balancing. Any feel of vibration should be investigated, and the first stop is wheel balancing. If you are not happy with the response from one tyre fitter, use another.

Alignment is one of the bugbears. Every tyre depot claims to do wheel alignment but many just don't get it right, and that includes some very big names. So watch for uneven tyre wear and at the first sign of poor alignment or you can feel your steering pulling to one side under normal driving on a flat road get your car in and have it checked. You will be told that you may have kerbed the car, hit a pothole or similar, but have it checked by someone you can trust and who lets you see quite clearly what they are doing. If your tyre fitter doesn't use laser alignment then take it somewhere that does, and ask to see the figures.

Accounting for general wear requires tyre rotation. Most owner's manuals show the proper cycle for rotation.

Punctures can sometimes be avoided by removing objects just stuck in the tyre. Beware however, or removing penetrations from inflated tyres. You may be able to drive to a tyre depot with a nail in the tyre. This is because radial tyres have a soft butyl liner that seals around small penetrations to prevent sudden air loss. This minimises the risk of high speed sudden loss of pressure, and it allows a get to safety option. If you remove a screw or nail, the tyre will deflate quickly and you will need a roadside tyre change - not always the best place to do the job.

Tread Depth Law and The Effect of Tread Depth on Tyre Performance

Current tread depth legislation requires that car tyres must have a minimum of 1.6mm of tread in a continuous band throughout the central ¾ of the tread width and over the whole circumference of the tyre.

However, despite the law, it is generally recognised in the tyre industry that the legal limit is an extreme. Many tyre manufacturers state that they design tyres to function as well at 1.6mm as they do at 9mm (the accepted normal tread depth when new). That is a surprising statement for any tyre company to make, but some have said just that.

So, if a tyre performs as well at 1.6mm as it does at 9mm, what happens at 1.5mm? Is there a sudden drop in performance? Actually there isn't, because industry testing has shown that when a tyre reaches around 3.5mm in tread depth, the level of performance in the wet, in particular, starts to deteriorate, as does its dry handling characteristics.

The recommended point for change is accepted Europe-wide as being 3mm. So much so that ministerial cars in the UK have their tyres changed at, you guessed it, 3mm.

Why then the current legal limit of 1.6mm? There are several arguments against the change, some of which you may question. One is that the sudden change from 1.6mm to 3mm would have a serious impact on the pockets of hundreds of thousands of motorists who are already struggling to keep their cars on the road. Another is that it would require changing all the tyre moulds in use to increase the tyre wear indicator depth to 3mm. And of course Europe plays a part, as there would not be universal implementation of 3mm tread depth, requiring double standards in production and possibly in policing.

The reality is that since tyres are now a global commodity it would almost require a global adoption of 3mm as a minimum. It doesn't take an Einstein to counter the arguments against 3mm, but until the legislation is in place you can make up your own mind, scrape by on 1.6mm, or be safe on 3mm. Your choice.

But before you make that choice, it might be worth your while having a look at the video indicated at the bottom of this article. It might make you change your mind.

Truck tyres currently have a 1mm legal minimum tread depth - which many are trying to drive up to 1.6mm - for exactly the same reasons as they want to see 3mm for car tyres.

Incidentally - you may wonder why the normal new tread depth is generally around 9mm. This is to do with the slip, ie distortion in a tyre block, and its level of hysteresis. If you take an eraser and holding it vertically, draw it across a desk, you will see that it distorts before it loses grip - that is what we call "slip". If you increase or decrease the length of rubber you are flexing, the slip increases or decreases. It becomes obvious that too much slip would make a vehicle unstable. Remember that the compound is a compromise too and the ratio of slip to tread block and the compound used is all finely tuned. The industry norm is for car, van and SUV treads, 9mm.

The Impact of Tread Depth on Tyre Safety

The braking and grip performance of tyres in wet weather deteriorates considerably once the tread depth reduces below 3mm. This is because the main function of the tread pattern of a tyre is to evacuate water. As the tread depth decreases it gradually loses the ability to evacuate all water from the road surface under the tyre and the car will eventually aquaplane.

Many tyre tests have shown that the wet braking distances of a new tyre compared with a tyre with only 1.6mm of tread left on it are huge and can be the difference between life and death.

Tyre Rotation

Tyre RotationTyre wear rates differ depending on the axle on which the tyres are fitted and whether the vehicle is front or rear wheel drive. To extend the life of your tyres it is advisable to change tyre positions on a regular basis. Different tyre manufacturers may recommend different rotation periods, ranging from 2-6,000 miles. It is advisable to switch tyres from left to right periodically as well as from the back to the front of the vehicle.Certain high performance tyres are position specific and should not be rotated. If in doubt, contact a specialist tyre dealer.

There is some dispute over the fitting of a pair of new tyres to a car. Simple logic suggests that the car needs most traction at the drive axle. In some cases that would be true, for instance if you were constantly driving in muddy conditions and needed the grip to keep you moving. However, irrespective of the vehicle, front or rear wheel drive, or even 4x4, the typical vehicle is designed to understeer in skid conditions. That is, it ploughs forwards.Generally, backing off the power and the brakes will recover the vehicle from the skid, though not always.

By putting the grippier tyres on a front wheel drive car, it increases grip at the front, but equally increases the difference in traction/grip between the front and the rear tyres, so the rear tyres lose grip early and as a consequence the car is at risk of going into oversteer. For the average motorist oversteer usually means ending up rear end first into the field (if they are lucky). That argument can also apply to rear wheel drive vehicles, it is not about getting the power down on the tarmac, it is about keeping the rear end of the car in contact with the road.

With four wheel drive vehicles, rotation of tyres is much more important and all four tyres, ideally, should be replaced at the same time. So, location should not be an issue. If it is, the same rule applies, newer tyres to the rear.

When a Tyre Stops Working

A tyre is designed to keep your vehicle in contact with the road. When it stops doing that it is no longer working and your vehicle develops a skid. The dynamics of skidding are for another website; here we briefly look at why your tyre stops working.

The micro detail of a tyre would show its micro irregularities in its tread surface interacting with similar micro irregularities in the road surface. Rather like a lizard climbing a sheet of glass, its microscopic hairs on its feet clinging to microscopic roughness on the glass.

When the car is sitting still, the tyre is sitting still and there are no dynamic changes in that interface between two surfaces. When the tyre begins to roll though those micro interfaces create a resistance that results in grip. Close examination of the tread block will show that as force is applied by accelerating (or cornering) the tread block distorts allowing the tyre casing to shift slightly in relation to the tread interface with the road. This distortion of the tread block is called "slip". The amount of slip in the tread block is determined by its size and its compound. A small block will have more slip than a large block, a deeper block more than a shallow block. And the amount of "slip" is also determined by how much the compound will allow itself to be distorted.

Whatever the compound and the tread depth, once the slip has reached its maximum level, the tyre casing then distorts, this happens both in acceleration and deceleration and also in cornering.

When the tyre casing reaches the limits of its distortion, the tyre has nothing left to give and, suspension settings accounted for, the tyre loses its grip at the point of micro interface with the road and the tyre skids across the tarmac.

It is highly unlikely that any normal driver would ever notice the tyre actually deforming. However most drivers will experience from time to time what happens when the tyre stops working: The skid.

There is one area where this is of critical importance in tyre choice. Most car drivers select tyres that suit their vehicle and its everyday use. There is one exception. The SUV/4x4 driver. There is a propensity amongst some 4x4 drivers to opt for the biggest, chunkiest tyres they can find. If they actually spend a great time of their driving off the road and in conditions that require those chunky tyres then there is no problem with that selection. However, when the vehicle is on the road for the majority of its life there are safety issues to be considered.

Those big chunky mud-plugging tyres may work well in the mud, and may even give comfort in snow, but, they offer a false sense of security on asphalt in the wet, and can add metres to the stopping distance, even in the dry. Not really important unless that extra metre or so happens to be occupied by another vehicle, or a pedestrian.

Those issues on stopping distances also apply to car and van tyres. Though the visual differences are not always so obvious. In tyre tests there can be varied results, tyres can be good in one area of measurement and not in another. So, when making your tyre choice do listen to the experts, read any tyre reports you can find. Most reputable tyre fitters have copies of test reports lying around. And remember, the most important metre in your braking distance is the very last one.

Tread Patterns and Profiles

Most people don't realise it but tyres are fashion accessories. No, you won't get away with giving your wife or girlfriend a pair of 255/35R16 as a set of earrings, but, when a car is designed, an integral element in the designing of a car is to include the tyre width, profile, diameter and pattern as a core factor in the design.

Whilst the tyre will always be required to do its job, of providing grip, traction, adhesion and being an element of the car's suspension, it nowadays also has to look good. It has to look good on the car and in the showroom. That makes the car tyre a fashion item.

It is impossible to tell from looking at one tyre tread whether it works better than another tyre of a similar style. It used to be pretty simple, a question of bars and lugs, and blocks. Now we have a different approach to tyres and how they work, and that means that things can get very confusing for the tyre buyer: Though they need not be.

Back to Basics

Very early on it was realised that tyres worked better if they had a tread pattern. Designs were arbitrary and Dunlop actually produced a tread pattern that left an imprint of the brand name Dunlop as it ran over soft surfaces.

There is a history of tread design that can be followed through the years. But essentially, there was the bar or lug type tread with solid lugs across the tyre tread traction. Then there was the circumferential channel pattern that gave lateral grip. A combination of the two basic patterns led to the block type tread pattern that survives in many tyre patterns today.

Interestingly, all three early type patterns are still available for specific uses today. However, modern motoring's focus has changed slightly, and whilst grip and traction are still core values, today we are more focussed on wet and dry handling and braking ability.

The best tyre on dry, level road surfaces is a slick. However, road surfaces are rarely dry, and the roads that we drive on every day - even the smoothest of them, are a far cry from racetrack surfaces, and as a consequence the road tyre needs to be harder wearing, so it has a firmer compound (generally), it has to have grip and traction, and it also needs to resist aquaplaning.

The tread on a modern car tyre is considered to be a water pump, designed to express water from between the contact patch and the road surface. How it manages to do that is the subject of many millions of pounds of investment for each of the leading tyre manufacturers.

For the tyre buyer, generally speaking, the greater the number of channels in your tyre's tread the greater its ability to pump water away. However, the design of those channels may make the tyre more or less efficient. A wide tyre may require a different approach to water dispersal than a narrow tyre. So that trendy looking tread you find on a Porsche tyre, may not be suitable on a narrow tyre fitted to the family saloon - and vice versa.

A recent trend has been the development of high performance tyres with circumferential grooves and tread bands that offer different characteristics across the tread of a tyre - these tend to be asymmetric and directional. Another trend is for the "single tread" where the tread pattern is such that the "land" area of the tyre never breaks contact with the road and the "sea" area (the troughs) channel water away from under the tyre. Both these tyre patterns are claimed to be quieter than block type tread patterns.

Noise Travels

Tyre noise is a big issue nowadays. Cars have become so quiet that often the loudest bypass noise comes from the induction system and the tyres. Tyre pattern can make a great deal of impact on the noise a tyre makes. The noise actually comes from the leading edge of the tyre block making contact with the road surface, and the trailing edge snapping back as it breaks contact with the road. So, the more blocky a tyre is, the noisier it will be: Perhaps something to consider if road noise is intrusive in your car. Winter tyres are always going to be louder than their all season counterparts because they are blockier and have many more sipes (thin slices in the tread block) to give better grip and pump more water away.

Noise is a comfort issue and comfort is a big issue for vehicle manufacturers and tyre makers. The tyre is an integral part of your vehicle's suspension. It absorbs the first and all minor impacts with variations in the road surface. It softens the ride and suspension settings at the point of vehicle design and manufacture take into account the Original Equipment (OE) tyre design. So, when replacing your car's tyres it is always a good idea to buy, at least with the first replacement, the same tyre as is fitted OE. By the time your car needs its second or third change of tyres the original specification of the suspension will have been diminished by wear and tear and it becomes feasible to fit non-OE tyres without any real impact on the car's feel since it will rarely feel like new by that stage anyway.

Comfort Profile

Comfort is also impacted by profile. Now this is where we are all becoming fashion victims. Cars are coming with ever larger wheels and lower profile tyres. The technical reason is that the larger wheels allow the manufacturers to fit larger brakes, and therefore make the braking of the car more efficient. In utilising larger wheels the car requires thinner, lower profile tyres to stay within the style and design characteristics of the vehicle, and also within the ability of the tyre industry to produce suitable tyres, and the aftermarket to deal with them. A vehicle that leaves the factory with 18 inch rims and 20 profile tyres will have had its suspension designed to deal with the harsher ride created by the low profile tyres. However, if a car comes with 70 series on a 15 inch rim and the owner changes to 18 inch and 20 profile (as an example), he will definitely have a harsher riding car as the lower profile tyre has a stiffer, less supple sidewall and will absorb far less of the surface undulations than the car fitted with the 70 profile.

So, unless you drive on excellent road surfaces for most of the time the low profile tyre is potentially harsher. If you fit low profiles to a car not designed for them, you will gain in looks (perhaps) but suffer in the ride. Your handling on smooth roads will improve, but on poor roads and potholed surfaces your handling will only be of use to you as you dodge the rim smashing voids in the asphalt.

If you want to know more about tread design then you will be best served reading the product news and the tread descriptions.

Low Profile Tyres - Performance Characteristics

Compared to conventional passenger car tyres, low profile car tyres have greater width ratio to cope with the demands of higher performance vehicles.

The key performance advantages are:

  • Improved handling and grip
  • More traction and braking power

Disadvantages are:

  • Increased road noise
  • A harsher ride
  • Less resistance to aquaplaning due to the amount of rubber on the road

Run Flat Tyres

All the latest technology brings the modern motorist the run flat tyre - by whatever name you wish to call it - a tyre that you can drive on when the pressure has dropped.

Actually, it isn't new technology at all, just more modern interpretations of old ideas using modern materials. The first patent for a pneumatic tyre was taken out by Robert W. Thomson in 1846. Thomson called it the Aerial Wheel, and one of his patents included a tyre with multiple inner tubes - another of his suggestions was to fill the tyre cavity with horsehair or sponge to support the tyre and prevent it collapsing onto the rim. In essence both these methods are in practice today in one form of run flat tyre or another.

If that isn't enough to convince that run flat technology isn't new, then let's go back to a small conflict in Europe in the middle of the last century. The War Office supported research into self supporting tyres. In one version the air in the tyre was replaced by a rubber ring with voids in it - This was the PT Support tyre and it was expensive and heavy, but it worked. In one report a raid on enemy lines was subjected to three hours of air attack. Three of the vehicles were set alight, and one put out of action by gunfire. The remaining three all drove 70 miles back to safety with punctures in every tyre.

There was also a run flat that used thick sidewall construction and a rim filler to retain the beads in place. This was revisited in the 1960's with the Tyron band - still available and selling well around the world.

Today's modern run flat tyres are essentially designed around those original principles - though perhaps the tyre manufacturers might disagree.

There is the Goodyear Run-on Flat - this is a tyre which is designed with stiffer than normal sidewalls, which use a temperature resistant compound to fend of destruction by heat generated by running flat.

There is the Michelin Pax system, which uses a well filler and support system to keep the tyre on the wheel and prevent the tyre from being destroyed by the rim in the event of a flat tyre.

Continental has the integrated wheel system, IWS, a stiffer sidewalled tyre combined with a rim and bead system that retains the tyre on the wheel.

And in truck tyres there is the Greatec system which has a tube inside the tyre that when the tubeless tyre is punctured, the tube fills the void and supports the tyre in a "get-to-safety" role.

The key aim in all of these systems is to keep the tyre on the rim for as long as possible and to delay the destruction of the tyre, allowing the driver to make his way to a place of safety.

The one thing all these tyres have in common is the need for a tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS).

TPMS is essentially a method of monitoring the level of pressure in a tyre and alerting the driver if there is a loss of pressure. Allowing him to reinflate the tyre or have the tyre swapped (usually a professional job as TPMS and run flat tyre equipped cars rarely have a spare tyre.

There are two basic types of TPMS, one is fed data by the vehicle ABS and traction control system which can identify a differential in wheel rotation - a flat tyre turns more slowly than an inflated tyre, so that differential can be used to flag up a pressure difference. The disadvantage of this system is that the vehicle needs to be moving for it to operate.

The other system uses chips in the wheel well of the wheel and tyre assembly to monitor pressure and report to the on board computer. This gives an instant pressure reading and can even be used to limit the speed of the vehicle. The minus point here is that these sensors mean that extra care has to be taken when fitting tyres, possibly even special equipment. They are also expensive to replace if damaged.

Most European vehicles with TPMS are manufactured with wheel mounted version.

Tyre Choice by Season

Summer tyre pattern Summer Tyres
The main characteristic of the summer tyre is excellent driving and braking performance on both dry and wet roads, in temperatures above freezing throughout the spring, summer, autumn and winter. A simple block-shape tread pattern ensures the tyre's contact area remains as rigid as possible, ensuring maximium grip at all times by optimising friction with the road surface. If the tyre has any special indication on it, it means this tyre is for summer usage.
Winter Tyres
This type of tyre is suitable for snow and ice covered roads. The tread pattern features a heavily siped, fine-block design with grooves that are deep and wide, providing excellent driving traction and braking performance on winter road surfaces. The tread rubber used in winter tyres provides good friction characteristics and suppleness even in low temperatures. At present, winter tyre design is focused toward braking performance and driving control on icy roads. Recent developments in tyre pattern design and rubber technology have greatly improved winter tyre performance.
Winter tyre pattern
All-season tyre pattern All-season Tyres
These tyres are designed to be used all year round to save having to change the tyres to suit the season. All-season tyre patterns are more complicated than those of the summer tyre because of the longer block-edge for winter usage. More sipes appear in the all-season tyre than summer tyre to improve the braking and driving performance by maximising the effect of edge. It is important to remember that in regions where winter temperatures are very low and heavy snow falls are frequent, braking performance will rarely be 100 percent so it is safer to use winter tyres. All-season tread designs will provide good all-around traction for varing road conditions, but still provide good treadwear and tyre noise characteristics.

Information courtesy of Kumho.

Tyre Ageing

All tyres undergo an "ageing process" due to exposure to the environment even if they have never been used or have only been used occasionally.

This phenomenon is caused by a number of factors including:

  • the process of aftercuring, whereby the tyre continues to culcanise very slowly. This is caused by factors such as light, heat and movement and makes the tyre become stiffer and more brittle.
  • oxidation involving oxygen and ozone from the atomosphere causing hardening of the rubber and reduced elasticity
  • plasticisers drifting from the tread area to other parts of the tyre, resulting in increased hardness.

Tyre ageing can be minimised by proper storage in a cool, dry environment, away from direct sunlight and away from electric motors (such as air conditioning units) or other sources of ozone.

Interestingly, tyres, which are infrequently used or not used at all, age and crack quicker than tyres, which are in regular use. For this reason tyre manufactureres tend to recommend including the spare tyre in any tyre rotation process. Spare tyres, which are old should be used with caution. If in doubt, get the tyre checked by a tyre expert.

Caravan tyres or tyres on other vehicles that are parked for long periods are particularly subject to ageing and owners of these vehicles are generally advised to jack the weight off the tyres and cover them so that they are not exposed to sunlight.

How long before tyres become too old?

This is rather like asking "how long can a piece of food be kept before it goes off?" and therefore it is something on which the tyre manufacturers have some difficulty in agreeing. No expert can definitively say how long a tyre will last as a tyre's life depends on many factors such as the type of rubber compounds used, temperature, usage, humidity etc.

However, Bridgestone's website points out that many tyre companies, including Bridgestone, offer manufacturing warranties on tyres for 5 years from the date of manufacture, which has resulted in many vehicle manufacturers advising against the use of tyres that are more than six years old.

The British tyre industry has not been able to agree on a definitive statement relating to tyre ageing. As a result of this the National Tyre Distributors Association is understood to be preparing a members' advice document for release in early 2008, which is said to be based on a similar leaflet produced by the German tyre dealers association (BRV)

The BRV's advice on the subject is, in fact, based on a joint statement dating back to 2001 and prepared in conjunction with Bridgestone, Continental, Dunlop, Goodyear, Michelin and Pirelli, which advises dealers to make sure tyres are not sold, which have a production date that lies more than 5 years in the past.

In terms of tyres already fitted to vehicles the BRV advises a maximum age of 10 years for car tyres and 6 years for tyres fitted to caravans, trailers of other vehicles likely to be standing around for long periods.

How do I check the age of my tyres?

All tyres are marked with a serial tyre identification number. The last three digits (for tyres made before 2000) or the last four digits (for tyres manufactured after 2000) denote the week and year of manufacture. For example, a tyre carrying the number 3506 denotes a tyre manufactured in the 35th week of 2006.

Wheels

Posted by budiman mohd | 3:28 PM | , , , | 0 comments »

Wheel and Tyre Fitting Check List

Before fitting tyres on aftermarket wheels check:
Fire 1. that the stud/bolt hole pattern is correct.
2. that the wheel fits freely onto the hub without interference and that there are no screws, rivets or retaining clips which may interfere with a firm, flat location of the hub against the wheel mounting face.
3. that the wheel rotates freely and truly on both front and ear hubs
4. when fastened to the hub, that no part of the wheel can make contact with the brake drums or calipers or any other part of the steering or suspensionCheck nuts and bolts. Correct fitting is vital. Be sure1. that the thread form is correct (fit nuts without wheels).2. that the nut/bolt seating is correct.3. that the stud length is adequate for minimum thread penetration of approximately 1 x stud diameter and not too long as to permit "bottoming" of the stud in the nut.4. that the threads are rust free and not over-lubricated5. when sleeve nuts are used, that the shank diameter is correct and that the bearing washers are always used.When fitting the tyre
1. make sure that the rim size is compatible with tyre size.
2. be wary of scratching the protective lacquer coating (on aluminium wheels and some chrome wheels). Aluminium corrodes very easily once exposed to atmosphere, water or chemicals.
3. where possible always use the adhesive type of balance weight, as these help to avoid scratching of the wheel finish.
Meshindo
Finally Check
1. that the wheel and tyre assembly does not contact any part of the suspension or body work by carrying out full 'bump' and lock to lock tests before driving the vehicle away from the fitting bay.Do not take risks. Wheel security is vital. Check with experts if you have any doubt.
(Editorial supplied courtesy of Wheelwright Ltd)

Torqueing Nuts

If people give little consideration to their tyres, apart from price, then how much less attention do they give to their wheel nuts/bolts? Most people will just be happy if their wheel nuts are tight enough to keep the wheel on the car - and those nuts simple cannot be over-tight, can they?

Well, yes they can.
The issue of a loose wheel nut is pretty self- evident. If one wheel nut on a set is loose, then it puts additional strain on the remaining wheel nuts. Now, for some reason, that additional strain only very rarely causes a wheel nut to tighten itself.

It usually results in a loosening. For most drivers that becomes a very obvious danger as the loose wheel vibrating on the hub transmits that vibration and possibly impacts on handling and steering control, so the driver will usually identify a problem and have it fixed. 

With an over tight nut there is no evidence of a problem until things go wrong, and go wrong they can. 

The first problem with over tightening a wheel nut is that the chances are they will all be over tightened, so on a wet and windy night when you get a puncture you can't get the wheel off and you have to wait for the AA or the RAC or whoever to come and sort a flat tyre. A repair most folks could do in less than the time it takes the fitter to arrive. That though is a minor problem. 

The next issue is that when a nut tightens on a stud it can, if over tightened, stretch the stud. In itself not an issue, but the stretching of the stud weakens it. It is unlikely that it will weaken it below its breaking point, but repeated over tightening can do. The stud in the process work hardens and can shear.

If one goes, so too might a second; that increases the likelihood of a third or fourth coming off. If you think that unlikely, then consider that trucks from time to time lose wheels from trailers when all the studs shear at the same time!


Alloy wheels are not quite as forgiving as steel wheels, and over tightening the wheel nuts can cause damage to the wheel centres, creating stress points that can lead to fracturing at worst, damaged wheel nut facings at best.


If your car uses wheel bolts rather than nuts, then you still have the same issues, plus the over tightening of the hardened bolts in the hub may strip the threads or even crack the hub. 

Every tyre shop should have a reference chart to which they can refer for wheel torque settings. If the fitter runs the wheel nuts/bolts on with an air gun and hands you your car back, ask him to check the torque settings.

However, remember that if the air wrench has set the torque higher than it should be, using a torque wrench will not identify that the nuts are over tight.

Torqueing Nuts - The Trade Side

The issue of the correct torque settings for wheel nuts raises its head from time to time. One popular motoring magazine suggested that a majority of tyre depots did not correctly torque wheel nuts and that this created, at best, a nuisance for drivers, at worst a safety issue.

To be fair torque setting is not just an issue for the tyre trade: it is an issue throughout the motor trade and is exacerbated by the increasing use of air wrenches for every nut and bolt task. The issue is less one of training, but rather one of monitoring. Companies may train their staff all they wish, but at the end of the training many staff go back to their depots and carry on doing it the same old way. We have all been sitting in on training sessions and said, or heard said, "That's all very well in theory, but in practice..." 

Question?
How can the tyre trade improve its performance in this field, monitoring the effectiveness of the training, and ensuring that the lessons taught in the classroom are followed up in reality? That applies equally to jacking up cars, repairs, fitting, balancing as well as torque setting the wheel nuts.

It is worth noting that in the caravan sector many of the specialist service centres will mount wheels on the caravan and manually tighten the wheel nuts, but will not release the caravan to its owner until he/she has personally tightened the wheel nuts. Thus relieving the service centre of liability should the wheels then fall off! 

Is there a need for industry backed performance monitoring?
Mystery shoppers are all well and good, but if the customer doesn't know that the quality of the work being done is inadequate, how can he tell? How can the mystery shopper tell? If a nut is over-torqued by the air wrench in the first place, checking with a torque wrench afterwards will only give a minimum reading. The wheel nut could be 10-15-20 Nm over tight, checking with a torque wrench will not readily show that. 

Dave Smith, Chief Training Officer at Michelin's Stoke Training Centre agreed that it was his job to train to the highest standards in the classroom, but out in the field it becomes an operational management issue. Asked how checks could be run at depots he suggested that following the policy of one particular chain the fitter who mounted the wheels would set the torque and fit the wheels but the job had to be signed off by a senior technician or depot manager. 

James Bailey handled our enquiry at Hi-Q and he agreed that monitoring was difficult but added, " Hi-Q has a national policy of checking torque settings but always recommend that the motorist checks the wheel nut torque setting after a few hundred miles." 

On the truck-side Hi-Q use a Torque Right gauge to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to the correct setting. It is something that could be looked at for the car market too. 

ATS Euromaster, as one might expect, train staff to the highest standards, but once again when the staff leave the classroom how do the standards get monitored? 

At the depots wheel nuts are run-on with an air wrench and the torque settings, taken from a wall chart guide, are set by torque wrench. It is policy at ATS Euromaster that the senior technician at the depot should check the torque setting of the wheel nuts on every vehicle before it leaves the depot.
However, in reality it may well be that this ideal is not always attained. There is though a further check in place. There are quarterly competency checks run by the depot managers on all staff in all areas of skill application. For truck fitters there is a specialist five day training course designed to ensure that they are fully competent in mounting tyres and wheels to commercial vehicles under all conditions. 

National told Tyres Online, "National Tyres and Autocare has strict procedures in place to ensure that any work carried out, including tyre fitting, is performed to the highest standard. Any branches or individuals identified as not following these procedures could face disciplinary proceedings." 

All the fast fit people we spoke to were adamant that they were doing their best to check settings. However, the one question that no-one could adequately answer was, if the settings are too tight, how can the supervisor be aware of this? Also, if the nuts have already been over-torqued by as much as 50 per cent the threads will already have been damaged and the studs stretched. Will the retailer then replace the studs and nuts free of charge? Will they offer redress for potential damage to alloy wheels? 

In any event, how does the client know what the correct torque setting for the wheel nut should be? It isn't in any owner's Hand Book Tyres Online has seen. One suggestion is that the torque setting for the wheel nuts should be displayed on a sticker on the door pillar alongside the tyre pressures guide. Then again, would that not just be another piece of information for the motorist or the mechanic to ignore?

There is no denying that this is a tricky question. It is also a wider subject than just wheel nuts. If the tyre trade can find a workable monitoring system to ensure that the correct standards are being met then it may well be taking a lead for other automotive servicing sectors to follow.